Pbus belay reddit. So, use Slip, Slap, Slide, or PBUS.
Pbus belay reddit It gets easier! It's a new skill to you and practice makes perfect. I use the two hand PBUS when belaying there, I'm not a dick and I understand the needs of University related anything. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. During this step the hand above pulls down while at the same time the lower hand pulls the rope through the belay device. So many very experienced climbers, like myself, still use SSS because it's safe if done correctly and how I've always done it. B for Brake. I learned to lead belay before current iterations of the Grigri were available. 16 votes, 11 comments. Crypto Personally, I prefer the ATC for a heavier climber. So, use Slip, Slap, Slide, or PBUS. I'm just your average redditor and avid rock climber who feels the need to weigh in on the recent string of posts… Posted by u/climbingmomma - 4 votes and 4 comments. Feb 13, 2018 · One hand holds the rope above belay device and the other below. I like that I can keep the belay super tight, stay right under the clip, and never shortrope my climber. Don't beat yourself up over it. Must demonstrate knowledge of z clip and back clip, knowledge of hard vs soft catch, pass the “lead climbing” portion and then separately the “lead belaying” portion. Although sometimes folks from that crowd are also forced to relearn new options due to injuries, either acute or overuse, like elbow tendonitis from training or simply Hell, I do plenty myself. Climbing is a mental game sport - despite that one hand sliding is just as safe, newer climbers are taught PBUS with an amount of for the backup, so I could see why she might get freaked out. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention I'm a little surprised your gym allows ATCs, unless I'm missing something? My gym requires assisted belay devices like a GriGri for top rope and lead belay. All the GriGri is is a tube-style device with a pinching cam that will often cinch down on the rope if it runs through the device too quickly. That being said, what happened was that I reverted to this method subconsciously without thinking and lost by belay certification without warning from some guy who had never climbed in his life before starting his job there a Apr 3, 2018 · There are discussions of PBUS vs slap/slide technique for top rope belays, but I can't find anything about my preferred technique, which is NOT PBUS, but which strikes me as The Best Way (described for right-handed belayer) P and B happen as before: Pull in slack, Brake with right hand. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Sometimes it won't do that. It's always important to respect your partner's risk limit if it doesn't put you in danger (increasing a ton of time, complications, etc. You need to belay like it won't work. Apr 28, 2025 · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. Pull out enough slack and just spot them until they've clipped the first piece of pro. Much more useful for them. It's each person's risk to take. Business, Economics, and Finance. I like that I can have 2 hands on the brake strand when lowering someone heavier through just a single carabiner. ) When I lead belay I usually do the pinch method until the first clip and then switch to PBUS Unless you're at a belay with an anchor (ie: 2nd+ pitch), there's no point in holding the rope. Howdy Ya'll, As the title suggests, I'm a 100% indoor toprope climber, and always use a GriGri belay device indoors. Hate saying anything to anyone, but if they pass the "I'd let them belay me" test then let people climb. Then there are people who you can tell are just inherently unsafe, and usually not due to PBUS vs tunnel. It's much the same as in the EpicTV video (Jul2 vs Pilot belay test) where he shows two methods to lower - one is to use your thumb to lift the device while having that hand still around the brake rope (same position as regular belaying with it), and the other is to pinch the device with thumb and two fingers. Hey guys. Just looked this up to double check. Then grab brake strand with LEFT hand ABOVE the right hand. A lot of people also can't be bothered to nerd about details of different belay techniques and are completely content to keep using the first, hopefully safe, one they're taught. Lead test is more involved. Posted by u/Thnewkid - No votes and 15 comments Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 3 votes and 30 comments Posted by u/tmiller3192 - 4 votes and 33 comments You should belay with a GriGri the same as you do with a tube-style device like an ATC. SSS was the standard belay method WAY the newer PBUS (hand over hand) method was taught. I am booked on an outdoor… Top belay they don’t actually have you belay anyone, they just test your knowledge with a rope that’s hanging near the belayer and tester. All that being said, I teach PBUS because it works and I'm required to. During the above step, it is not always possible to keep the lower hand behind the braking plane, especially on lower angle climbs. oahufleoddnqjktqhyginlflwgcuobobvialccaykaqugoxvc